The downside with using 50mm f1.8 is the fact you have to keep your shutter speed short to stop the star trails .. which in turn causes you to push your iso causing "noise" there is a formula for lenses and "size" max exposure time = 1000 devided by focal lengthSo 10mm : 100 secs20mm : 50 secs50mm : 20 secs100mm : 10 secs300mm : 3.3 secs.. you wanna keep your aperture as high as possible .. IE: 1.8 or F2.4 F2.8 F3.5 F4 ect .. your best friend at night is wide angle as it will let more light in so if you have an 18-55 f4 ect .. but its good to experiment (the downside to using a wideangle such as a 10mm lens is that you will always get star movement towards the outside of your lens.Lemme where your at in nz bro and i can always go out with you and give you some help or point you towards some friends around the country that are very proficient
Quote from winter: January 29, 2014, 02:29:08 pmGot in my first sunrise shot on the weekend, two exposures merged in PS with a mask etc.. this was shot on my 600D with my 18-55mm kit lens, forgot my tripod lolol.Getting some new gear in the next couple of weeks so looking forward to shooting my next sunrise with even better gear! CC and other comments welcome <3IMO its too red. Like... cool and all, but too processed for me, looks like one of those funny HDR's. I think that's a bit personal preference though.What new gears you getting?
Got in my first sunrise shot on the weekend, two exposures merged in PS with a mask etc.. this was shot on my 600D with my 18-55mm kit lens, forgot my tripod lolol.Getting some new gear in the next couple of weeks so looking forward to shooting my next sunrise with even better gear! CC and other comments welcome <3
Dragonfly by mcctravels, on Flickr
Is that bug alive?
what macro you using? a try 1:1 or is it a reverse?
hehe bust out the CC and get some of those powered macro tubes
Bee at it.Nifty 50 with manual tubes hand held 800 ISO